Ingalls, North Peak, South Ridge

February 28th, 2006 osgumero

Picture: Ingalls North Peak as seen on the approach from camp.  The south ridge is the left skyline.

This was the ultimate best trip(s) ever.  It is such a fun trip to do. Iv’e done it 3 times now.  Ingalls is located in the cascade mountains in Washington, right next to Mount Stuart, in the Stuart Range, which is a very prominent and well known peak in and of itself-TR to follow eventually.  It can either be done in a relatively long day or better yet, a laid back overnight backpacking trip which I did all 3 times.  It’s about a 6-7 mile relatively moderate hike into Headlight basin, where you camp and have a sweet view of Mount Stuart out your tent door.

Picture: Mount Stuart as seen from our campsite

The hike is easy enough that you still have energy to go to the lake and go swimming if you brave the cold water (especially in the summer when it can be dry and hot), or my personal favorite, sit around camp and play hearts (Iv’e had the most intense games of my life there).  Top it all off with a nontypical backpacking dinner consisting of some sort of marinara sauce and spaggetti noodles to end a perfect day.
Day 2 comes the climb itself.  The climb itself is very easy, ranging from 5.4 to 5.6 depending on which set of cracks you climb.  I did it in mountaineering boots the first time, but it’s more enjoyable in rock shoes.

Picture: Overview of the South Ridge

The beginning begins as a short scramble with maybe a 5th class move to gain the prominent ledge where the real climbing begins.  Many belay the lower scrambling part since a fall could be ugly and the rock is very polished and hence slippery in places.  From there it is 2-3 pitches to the top depending on how long your rope is, with the biggest bolts you have ever seen at the belay stations.  Protection is abundant, and only a small rack consisting of nuts and maybe a few cams/hexes/or tricams will suffice.  From the summit, you can see practically the whole North Cascades, from Mount Rainier to Mount Baker and everything in between.

After it’s all over, in Rosyln is a no name pizza place that probably has the best pizza that I have ever had, thus ending the perfect trip.

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