The Black Rose Wall - Rock Canyon, UT

June 9th, 2006 Summit

I love one-move wonders. Yesterday I went climbing with a friend up Rock Canyon at The Black Rose Wall. It is the very first Wall you come to in Rock Canyon and is to the left of Red Slab. The left most portion of the wall as two climbs that you can top-rope. They are in the neighborhood of 5.9/5.10 and are pretty fun. To the right of this slab, however, are some bolted climbs that are 10a (Pink Canoe) and 12a (Fat Hippos.) They both go to the same chains so if you just want to lean the 10 and try the 12 I would recommend it.

The 10 is tricky with the crux between the second and third bolt. It’s not very hard if you do it right but it is tricky getting the right footing so that you don’t swing off.

The 12 is very fun. It is a crimp fest and will likely put the most strain on your feet as you edge on little, quarter-inch holds. This climb is a total one move wonder. Once you get up to the crux, which comes after clipping the second bolt, you have to stick your left foot in a tinny hold that you would swear would never hold you. Then, while pulling hard on the crimper with you right hand, you reach up and left to hit the bottom of a very thin crack. Then you have to hurry and match your right foot to your right hand. once you hit this it is all pretty strait forward from there, yet strenuous.

The reason i like this one move wonder is because it it just my style. I have power, but only for a short amount of time. I’m one of those guys who boulders way harder then he climbs sport.

Entry Filed under: Whatever!, Climbing